How Portable Storage Buildings Can Solve Your Home Storage Issues.

Category: My Blog

Garage DIY shelf

Shipping Container garage storageWe’re going to be building the ultimate garage storage and workstation solution, inside of my shipping container garage.

 I started by cutting down some 8 ft. 2×4 on my miter saw. I set up a stop block so I could make repeated cuts since I’m just making a lot of the same size pieces. Each section of the shelf is 8 ft. long and 30 in. deep to fit the plastic totes.

 I bought three drilling holes with an 8 in. bit. I used 2 1/2 deck screws to attach each of my pieces. I used the square to make sure everything would line up nicely and after I had four of those built, I started by attaching the legs to the front of the first shelf.

 I’ll be raising it at eight feet tall so I got an 8 ft. 2×4. No need to cut but before I raise my shelf, I laid outlines on my wall since I’m doing this as one person. This is going to make it a lot easier without having a second person to measure.

 The two legs in the front of the shelf help hold everything in place and then I used a couple of braces to make sure that everything was lined up while I was drilling holes and driving screws. I’ve seen people do something similar when they’re hanging cabinets and this is where I got the idea.

 I used a full 3 in. screws in attaching the shelf to the wall. The second shelf was a lot easier to raise and the third was even easier than that mainly because after I put in a couple of braces, I was able to tie into the previous shelf as my reference. I kept cutting my braces down so I had that extra pair of hands that kept things safe and manageable.

 The next shelf sections are all 48 in. long rather than 8 ft. so I cut down some 2×4 in half and built shelves the same way as I did the first time and just like before, I cut my braces down so that I could rest the back end of the shelves while screwed in the front. It’s not so much about holding the weight as it is keeping things from shifting while you’re working in a different corner. I did add an extra brace in the shelf section for the workbench but aside from that, it installs just the same as the others, and in the closet section, I installed a shelf as low as I could.

 In fact, I rested it on the trim. I also used a spade bit to drill out a hole and install a dowel for a coat rack and that wrapped up the 2×4 framing portion of the project. 

 Sprays provide safe, yet powerful results against all kinds of insects, with four different formulas. Stinging, crawling, flying, and multi insect sprays. You’ll be sure to have the right tool for the job.

 What I love about Zeebo is, unlike their competitors who use nasty toxic chemicals, Zeebo sprays use common essential oils for their active ingredients to take care of those ants in the garage or that Hornets under the deck.

 Trap bugs are thronging by the UV and blue rays and then stick to the adhesive back then once it’s full of bugs you can remove the adhesive trap without touching any bugs and replace it with a new one.  

The shelves are made out of 5/8 in. particleboard. This stuff is pretty cheap and I had it cut down on the panel saw at Home Depot. Some of the 8 ft. sections I could just drop in a place like a workbench.

 Then I had to cut them down to 48 in. to match the shelves. I set my circular saw blade to go just past the wood and into the polystyrene insulation that I was using as my cutting board. It only costs about 10 bucks and it’s so much nicer than cutting on 2×4 blocks. 

 As you all know, I cut down those panels to 30 in. deep which means I had quite a bit of cut-off that I could use to make the top shelves by using these scraps that ended up being a really efficient way of making the shelves. In fact, I think it’s cheaper than if I were to use only 2×4.

 I made the floor of the closet raised so that mice would be less prone to get in there. I also cut some of the particle board to make a side wall so that it didn’t interfere with the workbench and because I already put one divider on the workbench, I decided to close off the other side.

 Who knows? Maybe I can put some cool tools storage on the sides here. The last step to finish out the project was to install some lights above the workbench. I found some linkable 2 ft. long LED strips.

 I got these from Home Depot but I found a better deal on Amazon and I will leave those linked in the description. Eventually, this is probably going to get sold off a lot more stuff but for the sake of steaks, I think everything looks great. There’s room for tools and stuff.

 We’ll be using this on a daily basis longer-term storage up top and a closet for motorcycle gear or hunting equipment. 

Easy Overhead Storage Shelves

Today we will know how to build these overhead storage shelves with sliding doors. So if you’re, looking to improve storage and your woodshop or garage stay tuned and we’ll show you exactly how for each eight-foot long but three-foot-wide shelving unit. 

I used approximately ten two-by-fours, two, two by sixes one sheet of half-inch plywood in one sheet of quarter-inch plywood, all of which you can get at any big-box store. That is local to you. Whenever I’m using dimensional two-by-fours, I like to run them through my planner for a few passes on each edge to take off the rounded edges. 

This isn’t needed, but it’s. Something I like to do for a more finished look using my table saw I went ahead and cut one half of an inch off the width of two 2×4 and then set them aside for later then I lowered my blade to half of an inch High and set my fence at a quarter of an inch from the blade. 

Next, I cut a groove down one edge of two 2×4 and then place the opposite face against the fence and cut a second groove on the same edge. These gears will be used for the sliding doors that will be installed later in the project before adjusting the fence.  

I went ahead and made the same cuts on a scrap piece of 2×4 to use as a test piece. I made slight adjustments with my fence until the groove was wide enough on the test piece for the quarter-inch plywood that I’ll be used for the sliding doors once my fence was set. 

I ran the two boards back through to widen each dado. Next, I measured the area above my garage door and decided that the bottom of the shelves needed to be at 29 inches from the ceiling. This will be so that the garage door will clear the bottom of the shelves as it’s opened. 

 If you’re building, your shelves for yourself, then remember you ‘ Ll have to get your own measurements and clearance for your garage door or whatever area you’re putting them in each ceiling can be higher or lower, depending on where you live, and what your area looks like. 

 I measured and made marks along the wall so that I knew where to line the bottom of my board. The good thing about using the area above the garage door is that there should be a header board running along the top edge of your door, and you will not have to search for studs to attach it to. 

 I use three-inch screws to attach one of the boards that are previously narrowed by half an inch at the table saw to the wall on lining the bottom of the board to the marks on the wall. I then started laying out my marks on the ceiling for my next board. 

 I measured the distance from the end of the board that I just attached to the wall to the nearest adjacent wall, and then I made a mark on the ceiling at the same distance. This will ensure that my board on the wall and the board on the ceiling will line up. 

 I then made marks in the ceiling three feet from the wall with a garage door, and I also made marks at each stud. I then aligned a 2×4 with my marks and attached it to the ceiling using three-inch screws [ Music ] over at the miter, saw I cut 429 inch long pieces from two by fours.

 The length of these boards should be the same measurement that you decided. Your shelves should be from the ceiling to the bottom of the shelf. These boards will be used as vertical supports. I used three-inch screws and attach two of these vertical support boards to the ends of the board that I just secured to the ceiling [ Music ].

 Next, I attached one of the boards with the data for the doors to the bottom of the vertical supports. After that, attach the second board, with the data at the top of the vertical supports, I attached one end and measured the distance from each board with the dedos before attaching the opposite in, I ensure that the boards were the same distance apart as the opposite side.

 This will ensure that the doors will slide equally and easily across the entire length of the shelf. I then attached two equally spaced vertical supports to the front and made sure that they were square to the horizontal boards, [ Music ].

 Next, I attach the second board that was previously narrowed. By half an inch at the table saw to the bottom of the board with the dedos I lined the bottoms of the board so that the half-inch difference in the two boards was at the top.

 This is so that the plywood for your floor will rest on top of this board. Once it’s installed, I measured the distance between the two bottom boards and cut four two by fours to that link. I cut half of an inch off two of the boards and drilled two pocket holes on each end of all four, I attached the narrow bores to the ends of the inside boards of the shelf, and the two others equally spaced in the center.

 I placed the two in the center flat with the pocket holes facing up so that they will be hidden after the plywood floor is installed. I measured from the wall to the inside of the bottom dado board to get the width for the floor, and I cut three quarters. 

 Inch plywood to size using my track saw this track saw, is really handy when it comes to breaking down large sheet goods, and if you’d like to check it out, I’ll put a link to it down in the description section below, as well as a link to all the other tools I used in this project anytime, you use those links, it supports the channel and I really appreciate it. 

 I slid the 3/4 inch plywood into place for the floor and screwed it down using two-inch screws. The floor should rest on top of the board attached to the wall and flush with the dado boards on the outside [ Music, ], [, Music ]. 

 I got the measurement for the width of the doors by measuring from the dado board to the dado board and adding three-quarters of an inch. A measure didn’t cut the doors to length so that they were long enough to fill the area between each vertical support and extend behind each one by a few inches on each side, I laid all three doors on top of each other and Drilled, a finger hole approximately three inches in from each side and Midway up having a finger hole on each side, made the doors match and make it possible to slough the doors to either the left or the right when opening or closing them. 

 Now you can slide your doors into place with the two outside doors in the outside dedos and the center door in the inside dado, a measure can cut a piece of 2×4 to attach between the wall and the ceiling board, depending on where your studs are located. 

 This board can be screwed directly to the ceiling or you can use a pocket hole. Screws like I did. This board is to act as a packer, so you can frame in each in I, didn’t, cut two more vertical pieces and attach them using my nail gun. 

 These are not for support, so screws are not necessary for the horizontal pieces. I used a two-by-six for the bottom piece so that it’s stood proud of the floor and gave me a lip to attach my quarter-inch plywood in the next step. 

 Once the end was framed up, I measured and cut a quarter-inch piece of plywood to cap the end from the inside. Once this was done, I moved over to the opposite end and framed it up as well. To give it a more finished. 

 Look I measured and cut two by sixes for the top area between the vertical supports and two by fours for the bottom. With the final trim pieces completed, these shelves are done and ready to be filled up.

 Alright, folks, I hope you enjoyed this build and if you did check this video out because I’m sure you’ll love it and if you have any questions, throw them down in the comment section below also, there will be a link in the description section to my website that’ll have a step-by-step tutorial for this as well. 

 You’ll have a good day. You [ Music, ]over

Best Build for Garage Shelves

Today we’ll learn to build a set of shelves for your garage. To get started I’m going to be on my miter saw station where I’m gonna cut off all two backboards.

  

 Let’s start the assembly process. The first thing I’m going to do is start by taking two 2×4 and then take 14 in. pieces and I’m just gonna hang them up on the ceiling.

 

That should be a good start. I’m going to be using these 3 1/2 in. construction-grade screws so there’s supposed to be a little bit more durable. That way it’s gonna anchor to the wall just a little bit better.

 

Now before I start hanging the 2×4 up on the wall, I want to make one mention of one thing and that is I already went ahead and mark my top and bottom shelf lines as well as the lines on the ceiling and I also went ahead and take a stud finder and found all the studs and mark everything. Now you want to do the same exact process.

 

It might be a little bit different for your garage depending on the dimensions but I think we’re all set to start hanging those up on the wall and you want to make sure you’re getting those into studs.

 

Otherwise, it is just going into drywall it’s not going to be anchored to anything. Now with the 2×4 attached to the ceiling, I can go ahead and start attaching my 48 in. brace pieces to the 2×4.

 

Now, with my 2×4 hung up all on the ceiling, I’m all set to start building the boxes that are gonna make up the shelves. The only thing is you don’t want to add the plywood quite yet, you want to go ahead and hang these up first before you do that otherwise, you won’t be able to easily hang it up on the wall.

 

With all my boxes framed out, I can go ahead and start hanging these up on the wall. It’s gonna be a good idea to get a few friends to hold these up while you’re screwing everything in place. With that last board screwed in on the side, that wraps it up for this project.

 

The main reason I opted for shelves that hang up on the wall rather than the ones to sit on the ground was that, with the ones that hang up on the wall I’m able to get all the way up and use all the top of the wall space but yet I still have all this ground space here, Brackins store stuff like lawnmowers maybe my wooden go-kart, a few bikes or something I’m just able to use all this space and then the top half is where I can just store the stuff that I don’t really need for the top shop.

 

I’ll probably be storing long-term stuff in the middle or on the bottom shelf, stuff that I need to access a little bit more often.

Awesome Garage Storage

 

This is about a garage door storage shelves and how to make them. Some of you may end up accumulating a bunch of crap, so you need to have a place to put it well.

 

 It’s quite obvious that not all living spaces or garages are created equal. So, before you go modifying anything be sure that the structure itself can actually handle the weight.

The way that this system will work, is there will be a 2×2 board on the wall at the height in which I want the shelves to be away from the ceiling. There will also be a 2×2 board along with the ceiling at the distance in which I want the shelves to extend away from the wall from the horizontal piece on the ceiling. Some vertical 2×4 will come down to another floating 2×2 piece, which will make the other side for these shelves to rest against, and then I’ll place plywood on top of both of those 2×2 boards.

 

As far as the 2×2 boards go, it’s much cheaper to buy a 2×4 and rip them right down the middle to get approximate 2×2 boards. I’ve got two 12 ft. boards and on the other side I’ve got two 8 ft. boards and then I’ll cut them to the approximate length according to the opening for my attic. Each shelf has three horizontal 2×2 and they all need to be the same length.

 

So, with one measure I can extend my mark to the other 2×2 boards. The shelf is actually a little too long for my miter saw station. So, I’ll cut that real quick by hand using a spacer board and a couple of scrap pieces of wood to locate where I want the shelf to be. The 2×2 board that will support the actual shelf will go on top of these two cleats.

 

These two cleats are here just to make the installation of the next board a lot easier. I’ll do this on both sides for both shelves while pieces are already installed, and luckily the ceiling will be even easier to install because the screws from the ceiling panels are clearly visible and the ceiling joists are running left-to-right.

With the vertical 2×4 is installed I can add the front horizontal 2×2 shelf support and to help me hold it up there while I secure it with the first couple screws, I’ve added a Koch piece of scrap wood to the bottom of a couple for the vertical supports.

 

At this point, all the hard work is done. I just need to cut some plywood shelves to their final size and secure them from the top with someone and a quarter-inch screws. So that was definitely one of those projects that require a little bit of manual labor but it was also definitely one of those projects that will be very beneficial in the long run.

This is otherwise wasted space that pretty much all of us with a garage has and don’t utilize.